By Gary Allen
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Additional info for Sausage: A Global History
Sample text
Such fermentation produces lactic acid, which preserves the meat (‘cooking’ it, in much the same way as lime juice denatures the fish protein in ceviche) and also creates a range of tangy flavouring compounds. Landjäger, soppressata and some kinds of chorizo are fermented. Many sausages are smoked, either while fresh or after some time spent hanging in cool air to cure. Smoking is done for two reasons: to help prevent the meat from spoiling and to add flavour. Sausages are prominent in cuisines from all parts of the globe, despite the development of newer, technological means of preserving meats.
Lancelot de Casteau’s Ouverture de cuisine (Opening the Kitchen, 1604) also features a number of fish sausages. His sausisse de Bologne de poisson in no way resembles anything we might recognize as bologna; it is made from carp and fresh and smoked salmon, with wine, cinnamon and eggs. Casteau also offered two recipes for sausages made from sturgeon, one from pike and even one from dogfish (a small shark). The New Kochbuch of Marx Rumpolt (1581) contains some unusual sausages: one of mutton and bacon, enclosed in sheep’s caul fat; Hirnwürst, a poached brain sausage made with eggs, ginger, pepper and saffron; several different ways to stuff a pig’s stomach; some sausages that are clearly antecedents of modern German sausages; and a brief allusion to a supposedly Italian beef sausage called Zurwonada.
The new flowering of literacy and the arts meant that cookbooks began to be written again (and, a little later, printed), so we can see the culinary changes reflected in the variety and distribution of sausages. While some well-known fourteenth-century cookbooks (the English The Forme of Cury, or Forms of Cooking, and German Das Buch von Guter Spise, or Book of Good Food) do not specifically mention sausages, others do. The anonymous Ménagier de Paris (The Goodman of Paris), written in the last decade of the century, includes boudins made of blood, goose or liver; andouilles; and a pork sausage made with fennel.
