By Beryl Peters; Jan Barnes
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Extra resources for Cheese & wine
As the cheese matures, the color darkens, progressing to deep gold, then butterscotch. The texture becomes drier and harder and the flavors more concentrated, with both saltiness and sweetness intensified. A two- or three-year-old Boerenkaas can smell like whiskey and taste like butterscotch candy, a far cry from bland factory-made Gouda in its red wax coat. Complement the caramel aromas of Boerenkaas with a dry or off-dry amontillado sherry or Rainwater Madeira. Sparkling wine can also handle its salty intensity.
A ripe Époisses smells of mushrooms, meat, and garlic. Under the sticky orange rind, the ivory interior should be soft and supple and just shy of molten. Like most washed-rind cheeses, Époisses is milder than its fragrance would suggest. Do eat the crunchy rind, a pleasing contrast to the creamy interior. Despite its long history, Époisses all but disappeared following World War II. The Berthaut family revived the cheese in the 1950s, and the Berthaut firm is still considered one of the best producers.
It has a bloomy white rind, the result of molds sprayed on the cheese early in its life and nurtured in the aging room. Some people prefer Brillat-Savarin when the rind is still snow-white. Others like it a little riper, when the rind develops some golden markings. Beware of specimens with sunken or well-mottled exteriors, signs they are overripe. The interior of a ripe Brillat-Savarin will be pale ivory and as silky, smooth, and spreadable as cake frosting. It should have a faint cultured-milk smell, with no evident ammonia, and a gentle lactic tang, like cultured butter.